Zdroj: 2018 – Explorersweb – odkaz
Rupal Face Nanga Parbat 2018
The upper section of the Rupal Face. (1) Holecek-Petrecek attempt in 2018; (2) South-Southeast Spur, aka Messner Route, 1970; (3) Central Pillar, Anderson-House Route of 2005. The far right skyline is the top section of the 1985 Mexican-Polish Route. Photo: Lee Young-Jun Collection via the American Alpine Journal
Another new route attempt
In 2018, Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Tomas Petrecek attempted a new alpine-style route on the Rupal Face.
Initially, they planned to establish a new line to the right of the 2005 Anderson-House route on the Central Pillar. However, bad weather and heavy snowfall forced them to adjust their plans. When a weather window opened, they shifted to a line closer to the 1970 Messner Route, following it until the Merkl Rinne, a steep gully used by the Messner brothers. From there, they deviated, climbing a new variation through rocky buttresses to the left of the gully, seeking a natural line of weaknesses.
After six days on the face, they reached approximately 7,800m on September 2. There, they were forced to retreat in increasingly strong winds (up to 100kmph). They were about 300m below the summit when they turned back.
They descended the Rupal Face, which Holecek described as extremely challenging, comparing it to a “cabriolet [horse-drawn carriage] trip without a windscreen in an ice storm.”
